Lovers of exotic animals a lot, and their number is only increasing. That is why various lizards are quite common inhabitants of domestic terrariums. The unpretentiousness of these animals does not mean at all that there are no peculiarities in their content. On the contrary, when selecting or creating a room "house" for these reptiles, many significant factors must be taken into account.
Sizes and shapes of terrariums
Science knows more than 3.5 thousand species of lizards. Of course, not all species are contained in the home. It is necessary to understand that for representatives of each species of lizards it is necessary to choose a “dwelling” in accordance with the size of the animal.
There are certain rules for the selection of a terrarium for each specific type and size of scaly reptiles.
- For example, for tree lizards you need to build such a “house”, where the height of the walls will be equal to twice the length of the animal. Least.
- Approximately the same formula is suitable for land lizards running, but only the ratio of 1: 2 refers to the width and length. In the sense that the length of the terrarium should be equal to double the length of the pet, and the width - the same length.
Terrarium do it yourself
In principle, an ordinary aquarium, which can be easily purchased at the store, is quite suitable as a home for an exotic pet. Naturally, water should not be poured into it. However, many wildlife lovers prefer to make a terrarium for a lizard with their own hands.
The material can be used
- ordinary glass
- organic acrylic glass.
When choosing one or another option, you must consider a number of features:
- ordinary glass is quite fragile and working with it is not easy,
- transparent plastic is a soft material, on which there are visible scratches from the claws of nimble reptiles.
Stages of work
Depending on the size of the domestic lizard, terrariums are made either in a frameless version (for a small reptile), or they are a frame construction, if a large lizard requires a large amount of space.
Frame. The walls and bottom of the terrarium are connected to each other with aquarium silicone glue, which is safe for animals.
Ventilation. There is an important feature: one wall (or part of the wall) should have holes for ventilation.
They can be easily made in plexiglass, but there is a variant of the wire side wall, which serves not only as a ventilation channel, but also allows active lizards to climb on it.
There is another way: the side walls are made of wooden slats, between which a plastic mosquito net is stretched.
Bottom. As the floor for such a terrarium used thick multi-layer plywood. If the dwelling for the lizard is constructed from wooden parts, then the size of the reptile should be considered.
Cap. As for the cover, the best option is a frequent metal mesh, which provides not only a good overview of the internal space, but also air circulation. There are examples of a composite cover, when its glass half is sealed to the walls, and the opening part is made of wire mesh.
As a result, the choice of the type of design directly depends on the type of reptiles.
Certain features of the interior decoration and equipment of the animal house also depend on the type of lizards.
If the house contains a reptile of a temperate climate zone, then daily temperature changes inside the terrarium should be monitored:
- during the day, it is necessary to maintain the temperature within the range of +20 to +25 degrees,
- at night, it can be reduced to + 18 ° C.
Tropical reptiles do not need such temperature fluctuations, so you need to establish a constant warm climate: up to +25 degrees, for example. Normal room temperature is fine.
Microclimate. To create the desired microclimate, you can use heating elements in the form of lamps. Of course, such lamps must have safety nets to prevent burns of the paws and the muzzle of the animal. In addition, a thermometer is installed inside the terrarium to monitor the temperature.
Humidity should be high enough, therefore, should be carried out daily spraying of internal elements and plants.
Yes, living plants are a great detail of the interior of the terrarium. Care should be taken, however, that they are non-spiny and non-toxic. Moreover, the vegetation can be planted directly into the ground.
Bottom organization. As for the soil itself, it can be fine crushed stone or gravel, as well as coarse sand. If the lizard likes to dig in the soil, the thickness of the sandy soil should be at least 10 cm.
Decor. The choice of decorative elements also depends on the type of animals.
- For example, a suitable terrarium landscape for desert and semi-desert inhabitants is sand, stones, caves and grottoes.
- To keep tree lizards you need to install several fragments of trees.
- And if a tropical reptile lives in the house, then a “wet” zone should be created - a small pool where the lizard will swim.
Lighting. An important question is the coverage of the terrarium. The fact is that for a normal reptile life, ultraviolet radiation is absolutely necessary. The lack of ultraviolet radiation can lead to degradation of the bone skeleton, increasing the fragility of the eggshell, which lay the females. Thus, in the number of necessary devices when equipping a terrarium you need to turn on the UV lamp.
In principle, to make a comfortable and spacious home for a domestic lizard is not difficult. However, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with its habits and living conditions in the natural biotope.
1. Simple terrarium for air plants
Terrariums for home plants (florariums) have recently become a very, very popular thing among people interested in breeding home plants. The reasons, in general, are clear: it is beautiful, beautiful, and once again very beautiful. Well, in addition, affordable, fun, stylish, original. In general, there are no reasons for the sea, no reasons for the reasons, except for a warning: it delays, so be careful!
2. DIY tabletop terrarium
One of the coolest pieces that can be said about self-created decorative terrariums is the adaptable size and shape. It depends only on you how big it will be, spherical or cubic, of the correct form or full abstraction. Decide where your terrarium will stand - and after that it will be easier to determine the shape and size.
3. Multi-colored sand terrarium
Of course, the main "highlight" of the decorative terrarium - layered multi-colored sand. Finding beautiful color combinations seems like a simple task, but believe me, you will have to tinker a bit before you are satisfied with the chosen palette and find your perfect color balance. Yes, the task is not simple, but the result is worth it!
4. Terrarium in a vase
It happens to you that you didn’t seem to be interested in the topic, you were generally indifferent to one or another kind of creativity, but you accidentally saw a thing done in a certain technique and. gone? It’s quite possible that do-it-yourself decorative terrariums are not at all those things that could hook you, but you will carefully look at how the sand is laid out in this terrarium. Yeah, hooked? Look again - and then you just can not pass by!
5. Decorative terrarium in the glass
To begin to create decorative terrariums with your own hands and fall in love with this topic, it is not at all necessary to immediately run to the store and buy a lot of everything that is necessary and beautiful, but expensive and tricky to implement. Believe me, much of what you need can be found at home, in the courtyard, with a friend. Show your imagination, surprise yourself!
Where to begin?
First you need to decide on the size and shape. There are three types of terrariums - cubic, horizontal or vertical. For example, a terrarium for a land tortoise or for pets leading a semi-aquatic lifestyle should be horizontal. Cubic terrariums are suitable for burrowing animals, and vertical terrariums are used for pets leading the arboreal lifestyle.
The size of the tank depends on the size of the animal and its biological characteristics. It should be taken into account where the future terrarium will stand, since the bottom of the tank must rest completely on the surface you have chosen.
Installation of terrarium doors
The doors of the terrarium, will consist of two glasses, moving on special poloski. You can buy them in any furniture store, most importantly, take into account the thickness of your glass.
The lower skid is already installed, now it is necessary to fasten the upper one. To do this, you need a piece of glass similar to the element. "but" from the front ventilation design.
Already in the usual way we glue it to the element of the lid, parallel to the lower polozok. When the glass is dry, we glue to it a skid.
Now you can insert the glass door. It is necessary that they are located overlap. Therefore, we take their sizes as 590x345.
With the help of a sealant, handles can be attached to the glass and installed in poloski.
At this assembly of the terrarium can be considered complete. A schematic general view of the finished design is given. in figure 6. It is important to remember that the terrarium is going under the individual needs of the animal.
Using this example, you can make a terrarium with your own hands of other sizes that will suit your pet.
How to make a terrarium do it yourself
The first thing you need to choose the right material for the manufacture of the product. When reading the information on various forums and web resources, we can conclude that the glass box will be very expensive, and OSB has toxic substances, the most accessible and safe will be plywood. This material is cheap and clean, although there are drawbacks, for example, glass is much more functional than plywood in terms of functionality. Consider the creation algorithm:
- First you need to determine the size and purchase the required amount of plywood. The larger the dimensions, the better it will be, the animal will feel more comfortable and free, and it will directly affect the growth of the pet.
- Now go to the stage of selecting tools and materials, we need: glue, plywood, liquid nails, drill, as well as screws.
- We need to take one plywood element, which will make up the bottom part. You need to glue it to it and fasten small pieces of plywood, taking 1 centimeter from the edge. These elements will be a kind of support, then you can glue the side wall.
- Strengthens the corners with corners.
- When the sides are prepared, we can move to the back. It is glued with glue and additionally fastened with several screws.
- The same method is screwed lid, it should securely close the structure on top. In our case, the box will open from the side.
- You can go to the bottom. It is necessary to take three small pieces of plywood and glue them to the floor, after which fix a large part of the plywood from above.
- In our design, there will be two front windows, their movement is provided by the slats. First, the rails are fixed, after which the glass is inserted.
- Ventilation is made from the side, which will make the pet more comfortable. You must first purchase an air vent and make holes for it.
- At this stage, the body is ready, then you just need to decorate it, but further work depends on individual preferences and characteristics of the pet.
This is the easiest way to create, do not forget about very important elements such as light, heating, feeders, drinkers, swimming pools, etc.
House for python
Many ask how to make a terrarium for python. Not so often you can meet with friends or acquaintances your house for exotic animals. Especially when it contains a python. The first thing that comes to mind to the inhabitant at the mention of pythons is a large and dangerous snake. Experienced owners describe their pets as pleasant and quiet creatures. To achieve for your pet a pleasant and long life, it is important to seriously approach the arrangement of favorable living conditions.
Before you do a terrarium for a snake with your own hands, you can try to choose it in the store. An aquarium for python must be carefully chosen so that it can be called ideal. To eliminate the possibility of escape from the aquarium, you must take an aquarium with a tight-fitting lid. It is important not to forget that fresh air is required. The area of the dwelling should be large enough to make it convenient for the python to move around. For example, for tiger pythons, the priority is the area of the aquarium, and not height. At the bottom of the aquarium is permissible to spread the newspaper. But to different types of soil and wood should be treated with caution, as in the aquarium there will be a process of decay. The python dwelling needs periodic cleaning and bedding replacement.
House for python
Python is a cold-blooded creature, it is important to know how to make a terrarium with your own hands. This means that what the ambient temperature is, so is the python. Therefore, it is very important to maintain the temperature within 27 degrees Celsius. Experienced owners recommend placing a ceramic heated element near the python's home. The python will be happy to bask near it, but at the same time, it can crawl into a cool corner without the risk of overheating. You should look to the purchase of a thermostat to accurately control the comfortable temperature in the home of your pet.
In nature, python is a hunter. The process of feeding the python should be the same as in its natural habitat. It is important that whoever is going to hunt a python, smell of food, move as a hunter’s goal, be warmer than the environment. As they get older, the python will consume more food. A very small individual can be satisfied with a pair of mice per week. When a python grows more than a meter, he should be given either more mice or one rat. With a python length of about two meters, a big rat will already be very useful.
As the python grows, you can replace the rat with a rabbit. The bigger the snake, the bigger the rabbit. When the length of the python rushes to three meters, it is permissible to feed him adult chicken. In addition to food, python is important access to fresh water. It is not necessary to make a python bathroom, bathing can take place partially. It will be enough to equip a large heavy bowl in an aquarium so that the python can submerge half the body. Terrarium for snakes with their own hands should have several important aspects.
Before purchasing such an unusual cold-blooded pet, it is important to familiarize yourself with the rules of safe keeping. It is necessary to communicate with python not only during feeding, otherwise it will develop a conditioned reflex. When the python is in good spirits, you need to take it in your arms, you can stroke it. It is important for the snake to understand the difference between feeding and intercourse so that it can distinguish its owner from a delicious dinner. It is important in no case to prevent children from playing with a python on their own, teasing or offending him.
Pythons differ in beauty, size, appearance. But any of them requires careful maintenance. The beauty and grace of a cold-blooded predator must be strictly controlled by its owner. Under all conditions of proper maintenance, an individual can grow to a very good size and please the household for a long time with its grace.
Dwelling turtle dwelling
Despite the fact that at the mention of the words "pet" and the mind most quickly come soft and fluffy cats with dogs, now all people get their own red-eared pets as pets. These are thermophilic long-livers, who do not have many whims, but they are interesting for observation. You can make a terrarium with your own hands, an individual should live in aquadomics, which has the following qualities
- capacity from 100 to 150 liters,
- its bottom should be covered with water not less than 40 cm thick, exceeding the thickness of the shell,
- so that the individual does not run away and hide in an unknown direction, it is necessary to cover the dwelling with a lid with holes,
- the temperature should be 22 - 28 gr., and in any case not less than 20 gr.,
- too low a temperature will lead to lethargy and weakened immunity.
- Of course, if there are several pets, you need to take care of sufficient flat space for them.
The filter, the same as in fish tanks, will maintain cleanliness. To reduce the concentration of organic substances hazardous to the turtle, it is advisable to change one third of the water twice a week. Water must be separated. Ультрафиолетовая или зеркальная лампа подойдет в качестве дополнительного освещения.
Так как такие питомцы любят иногда погреться в тепле, нужно устроить им сушу из гладких больших камней или специально крепящегося стекла. Лучше не делать «сушу» из дерева, так как оно подвержено намоканию и образованию плесени. Над сушей нужно поместить лампу, а в воде трубку с термостатом. So the thermophilous pet will not freeze.
Neighborhood and interior design
To avoid conflicts, it is better not to "hook up" them to the fish. However, you can install a vertical glass with water holes. If you do not allow cracks that can miss a turtle, such a neighborhood will be peaceful and aesthetically beautiful.
When planting a pet-eared tortoise as a pet, it is important to remember that it grows rather quickly. Only by the second year of life, it grows to 25 cm. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately buy a spacious house. When creating an interior, you need to take care that the items that fill it are not only beautiful, but also safe. It is necessary to use non-sharp and not too small stones (the turtle can make attempts to swallow them).
The turtle will gladly dig up and eat any plants, therefore when choosing a flora it is better to stop on the bark of trees, snags and caves. If it is impossible to do without pleasing the green herbs, then it is necessary to securely fix artificial plants.
The choice of housing for the spider
First of all, the choice depends on the spider itself. For burrowed and woody species, a tall house is needed, and for terrestrial species, a large house. Production material depends on your goals. Best of all proved acrylic. Good side and top ventilation is required. If it is too weak, mold and fungi will appear on the substrate and snags. Relatively weak ventilation can only be used if the dwelling is used for dry species.
The choice of housing for the spider
However, this is not all that should be considered when choosing. It should be more detailed to deal with each of the types of spiders.
Choice for ground
As mentioned above, for a landowner the house should have a large area. What exactly is meant by this? The size of the bottom should be 3-4 times the size of the spider itself. The height should be no more than 30-40 centimeters so that in the event of a spider falling from the roof (for example, under stress after a transplant), it does not die and will not receive any injuries.
It must be equipped with the upper door and, if possible, the front door. This will simplify the manipulation of the spider and the internal elements. For example, if the spider is on the ceiling, then opening the box will be dangerous for both the person and the spider. Front door solves this problem.
Choice for wood
For a tree, the bottom area should also exceed the size of the spider by 3-4 times, but the height should be approximately 1.5 times the width. This will allow the snag to be placed in such a way that it does not reach the top and the spider does not twist the ceiling, thereby blocking the upper door. For the same reason, the presence of the front door is required. Also, when feeding tree species, it is more convenient to use it, since these spiders always try to escape from danger upwards.
The location of the front door is chosen depending on the specific type. If the spider is predominantly woody (for example, poecilotheria), then the door should be as low as possible. If the tarantula conducts a part of life in a hole (like spiders of the genus psalmopoeus), then for more convenient work the door should be in the middle. It is possible that the spider will block one of the doors.
In this case, do not tear the web, as the birdworm will begin to experience severe stress. However, if both doors are locked - there are no other options than to tear the spider web, no.
Choice for a minnow
As in the case of woody species, the height must exceed the width, since a clearly dominant number of burrowing species of tarantulas requires a high level of substrate. The area can be used a little more, because many burrs build large “labyrinths”. They also molt in holes, and a small amount of substrate prevents the spider from building a “room” to update the exoskeleton.
The presence of the front door is optional, but desirable. Although in most cases, the miner blocks it. But this, again, depends on the species. Wet species like hysterocrates do not use almost a web to build holes. But dry, such as ceratogyrus, abundantly braid the hole and the adjacent space.
Terrarium for chameleon
Everyone knows the property of chameleons to change color and thereby adapt to the environment. With this, they hide from natural enemies and trap their prey. This amazing feature could not help but interest a person, and chameleons were raised as pets. In order for this exotic lizard to bring joy to its owners, it is necessary to keep it in conditions as close as possible to its habitat. At home, chameleons live in houses bought or made independently.
For a home chameleon, the box should be vertical, with one wall being replaced with a grid for ventilation. Recommended capacity - from 200 liters. It can be made of glass, plexiglass. The terrarium should be located in a place that is absolutely protected from drafts.
Terrarium for chameleon
A chameleon is an animal that is very sensitive to the length of daylight, temperature and humidity of the environment, therefore the following important aspects should be taken into account when setting up a terrarium:
- Light day should be twelve o'clock, and for this terrarium equipped with ultraviolet lamps.
- The average value of humidity is 70%, and a more accurate value depends on what kind of chameleon pet will live there.
- The temperature in the daytime is 28-30 degrees, and at night - 24-25.
A hygrometer, a UV lamp for reptiles, a thermometer, a drip irrigation device, and incandescent bulbs will help provide the necessary microclimate. In the terrarium for chameleons necessarily have branches, artificial and live plants. In nature, this lizard spends its life in dense vegetation on the upper tier, only occasionally descending to the ground. In the branches, she feels safe, and this is very important, as chameleons are overly emotional animals, and stress adversely affects their health.
Regular spraying of plants is necessary not only to maintain moisture, but also so that the chameleon can quench their thirst, as these lizards lick the drops from the leaves. If two or more chameleons live in a terrarium, it should be separated by plants so that animals do not meet. Two males will necessarily fight in the same territory.
The bottom of the terrarium is best covered with artificial turf, as it is easy to keep it clean. Also in the terrarium set feeders, of which the lizard will eat their usual food - crickets, flies, worms. As noted earlier, chameleon is drinking drops from the leaves, so there is no need to put a drinker. Getting an exotic pet, we must not forget that these are living creatures and that their life is comfortable, the owner needs to put a lot of effort and follow all the recommendations. Chameleon will please the owners with its healthy appearance only if its content is correct.
Before you begin work on the manufacture of a terrarium or aquarium, you need to calculate the necessary dimensions, as well as take into account all the peculiarities of keeping pets, such as the location of the feeder, lamps, shore, house, reservoir, curtains, ventilation and other accessories.
For the manufacture of a terrarium, materials such as glass, wood, and hard polyvinyl chloride, plexiglass are perfect. It is also worth considering that it is better to choose natural materials for building terrariums, since artificial materials at elevated temperatures may emit toxic substances.
Types of terrariums
Terrariums are frame and frameless. It makes sense to make wireframes if a large volume is required for keeping reptiles, but it is more expedient to make terrariums of small sizes one-piece of glass or plexiglas. It is also a good idea to use old furniture as a material.
In the manufacture of frameless glass terrariums use only special glue, which must be non-toxic to animals. It is best to use silicone glue. Plexiglas terrariums can be glued using organic solvents such as dichloroethane, chloroform with the addition of plexiglass chips.
Work needs to be performed on a flat table, covered with film. Pre-wipe the edges of the parts with a cloth dipped in acetone and then a dry cloth.
Getting to the assembly structure
First, put the bottom and grease the junction of the side and rear walls. Then with the help of glue we put the back wall on the bottom and fix it so that it does not fall. All walls of the terrarium glue to the bottom. To make the glue better, you need to splash the construction with water with a spray bottle after gluing. Excess glue can be removed with a stationery knife blade after it has completely dried.
If in the process of gluing mistakes were made, and the design must be disassembled, then all parts glued with silicone glue can be easily separated using a thin strong thread.
In the manufacture of the main supporting structure of the frame of the terrarium, you can also use metal corners and wooden bars. Screeds and ribs for terrariums, as a rule, are not used. The glass must be at least 4-5 mm thick.
For a comfortable stay of a pet, a terrarium must be equipped with ventilation. The grid can be made of rigid perforated aluminum sheet or stainless steel and placed on the sides in the lid of the terrarium, or the front door. The holes in the ventilation sheet should be about 3 mm. The size of the grid depends on the selected location. So the upper ventilation is about one third of the entire width of the terrarium. The bottom ventilation is made in the form of a “pocket” with a grid width of 20 to 50 mm, depending on the size of the terrarium.
The height at which incandescent lamps are installed depends on the conditions of the reptile. Given this feature, you need to calculate the level of design. So, if the lamp is installed at a distance of about 25 cm from the pet, it is desirable that the height of the terrarium be 45-50 cm, depending on the type of lamps used.
The design must be protected from moisture. For this, the material from which the terrarium is made is carefully stained. It is enough to process wooden elements twice with hot drying oil, and then cover with furniture lacquer. The natural color and texture of wood will look very aesthetically pleasing; therefore, it is best to cover the wooden elements of the frame with epoxy paint of a bright and rich color.
Steel and duralumin structures should be carefully painted over from all sides. Epoxy paints are also used here effectively. For the manufacture of the walls of the terrarium, however, as well as the top and bottom, you can use multi-layer plywood. It should be processed on the same principle as the wooden frame structure. The bottom of the terrarium can be made using linoleum or thin plastic. These materials are non-toxic and look great. However, it is worth remembering that having bedded such a flooring, it is necessary to seal all the joints of the joints so that the spilled water, for example, from the drinker, does not numb and destroy metal or wood.
The design of the terrarium needs to be designed in such a way that it is possible at its discretion to regulate the intensity of illumination, temperature and humidity regime, regardless of external factors.
The terrarium should be equipped with a door that should move to the side. For this, runners from the bookshelf are perfect. If you put two windows, then the door can be pushed back and forth.
First, you need to cut two strips of glass, so that the width of one was one third of the total height of the terrarium, and the other was 10-15 centimeters. The thickness of the glass strips should be about 4 millimeters, and the length - equal to the length of the front panel of the terrarium. The first strip is glued to the ends of the side lower and upper glasses, so that the first cut strip is at the bottom, and the second at the top, as shown in the figure. The grooves are made a little shorter and put on glued strips. Now you need to cut two more glass strips, which will be mounted on the sides. Their width is calculated as the difference between the lengths of the front panel and the groove, divided by two. Finished parts are glued at the ends of the upper and lower strips.
Then you need to cut the glass on the door, which can be made whole or from the two halves.
Fastening the door can be made with glass holders, then the glass will open to itself or use magnets. However, it should be borne in mind that if the climate in the terrarium is humid, the magnet glued inside may rust.
If the device of a terrarium assumes the presence of partitions, they can be made from two strips of glass or waterproof plywood 4 cm high, which are glued to the bottom with a sealant with a distance equal to the width of the glass. A glass is inserted between them, which is stuck in the background.
Partitions will move along the runners, which are glued on the sides.
It can be clearly seen in the picture:
Aquarium - is an excellent interior solution. Therefore, if you decide to become an aquarist, then gluing together an aquarium will be the first step to a new hobby, especially if the constructions of a suitable size and configuration were not on sale. The aquarium is fairly easy to glue together on the principle of an open seam.
First you need to decide on the size of the aquarium and prepare the glass.
The best material for an aquarium will be glass with a thickness of at least 5 mm. The thicker the glass, the easier it will be to expose and glue. Varieties of glass that are suitable for an aquarium are indicated in the range from M1-M8. The higher the grade, the better the glass, so it’s better not to use lower M3.
You can make plexiglass, but its performance is much worse. The required size of the glass can be purchased at the glass workshop or independently cut from window glass. However, such glass can distort the surface, which will affect the appearance of the aquarium. For glass cutting, an oil glass cutter, a “carpenter” ruler, a square, a caliper, a calculator, a marker will be needed. Cutting should be with a discrepancy of no more than 1.5 mm. To withstand geometric parallelism, you need a square and a neat marking for cutting. After cutting the corner edges of the glass must be sanded in order to remove sharp edges. For grinding, it is best to use a corundum sandpaper of the middle number. Put the glass in the bath on a wooden stand or towel and gently, rub the edges under the stream of water.
Now determine the size of the glass
Take the conditional dimensions and consider in detail the scheme of drawing up calculations. So, for the aquarium to 45l need, length 50cm, width and height 30cm. Glass thickness choose 4mm. Then with a ruler or caliper measure the actual thickness of the glass. For example, it will be 3.8 mm.
The size of the side and front walls are calculated as 2 X 50X30 and 2 X 30X30.
The size of the bottom will be equal to the length of the aquarium X width of the aquarium + double the thickness of the glass, we get the "clean" size of the bottom which is 50x30, and taking into account the thickness of the glass - the size of the bottom will be 50.76 cm X 30.76 cm.
For gluing the aquarium will need syringes with silicone
Their number depends on the volume of the aquarium, so a pair of 20 ml syringes will be enough for 10–20 liters of volume. You also need to have narrow tape, scissors, a clean A4 sheet, alcohol, toilet paper for degreasing, a couple of suckers.
As a working surface for gluing the structure, it is better to choose a flat surface about 1.5 m in length, for example, a table or a floor. Glasses are laid out, alternating the side glass, frontal, then again the side and frontal, while you should pay attention to the fact that there are ideally even sides below. This will prevent leakage. Edges must be carefully aligned joint to the joint. The discrepancy on the segments, which will turn out on opposite edges, should not be more than 1.5 mm.
In order to simplify the work, we first glue tape on the glass joints. At the same time it is necessary to make sure that the glasses are tightly attached and the edge is even without distortions. We do not glue the adhesive tape from the bottom, leaving a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm, and from the top - by 1-2 cm. Thus, the tape will not interfere with the application of glue and in the future it will be convenient to remove.
On one of the sides of the tape must be glued only on one half of the tape, the other will hang in the air. On the side where the tape is, put one half of the glass, exposing it smoothly, and put on top of it the other side where there is no tape. Press down lightly to make the tape stick better. During this stage of work, you should constantly monitor the accuracy and flatness of the docking.
Then slightly raise the structure and iron the last strip of adhesive tape so that it sticks tightly to both sides.
Before you begin gluing parts with glue, you need to set the parallelism. This is best done at the bottom of the future aquarium, which is put on top of the structure. При таком способе будут отлично видны все погрешности в геометрии и неровности, допущенные при нарезке. Клей необходимо использовать только специально предназначенный для аквариумов. В противном случае токсичные вещества могут, в дальнейшем, привести к гибели рыбок.
Перед склейкой также необходимо убедиться, что все угловые открытые, донные швы были ровными, без дырок, прогибов, задиров. The bottom glass should not touch the walls, so when gluing together large aquariums, you must first glue small balls of silicone onto the bottom edges, and only after they dry out apply a base layer of glue.
Trim the seams so that there is no distortion. Before filling the seams and bottom edge with glue, they must be thoroughly degreased with alcohol. Corner seams are filled with silicone from the bottom up. The extruded adhesive tape must go continuously and fill the entire space of the seam; the tightness of the aquarium will depend on this. Therefore, the glue should not be sorry, the excess can be removed after drying. Now you need to align the corner edges again. To do this, we use a small piece with a smooth surface, cut off from A4 sheet and slightly pressing, we spend in the center of the seam, leveling the silicone. Then clean the edges of the glass with a clean piece of sheet of silicone residues that are extruded during leveling. You can also stick a narrow masking tape on the edges of the glass before applying the silicone so that excess silicone does not fall directly on the glass.
After you have finished gluing the corner edges, you can proceed to filling the bottom with silicone. On the bottom glass we fix suckers, with the help of which the bottom glass will rise and fall on the edges. Before applying suckers need to wet, so that they are in the most crucial moment did not fall behind. Glue is applied on the bottom edge, and gently, lower the bottom glass on the glued edges. Then remove excess silicone residue.
Not earlier than in an hour, one and a half silicone will grab and the design can be gently turned over. It should be noted that at low humidity glue dries better and faster. Now you can remove the tape and carry out prevention, which consists in applying a layer of silicone on the inner corners of the bottom and walls. The applied glue layer is leveled with a piece of paper or with a finger dipped in water. At the junction of the walls and the bottom, in the lower corners, prevention should be done very carefully. The seams of prevention should be smooth, without scoring, shells.
Scotch tape must be removed after 3-5 hours so that it doesn’t eat and leave marks on the glass. In which case the remnants of masking tape can be slightly moistened with water or rubbed with alcohol, it leaves traces on the glass. Water can be poured not earlier than in a day, when the glue disappears well and dries.
Before, run into the aquarium inhabitants, he must stand for some time with water to check the quality of gluing. If there is a leak in the corner, then you need to take a little glue on your finger and press it into the corner from the inside of the aquarium, but you can not drain the water. If the leak goes along the seam itself, you will have to drain the water and remove the piece of the seam. Then press silicone in its place. There are also cases when small bubbles may appear in the seams. In this case, if there is no leak, then it is better not to do anything. Typically, such aquariums are well maintained for quite a long time.