The dog is not only a friend of man, but also a full member of the family. Of course, in a city apartment there is not always an opportunity to have a shaggy pet. But if you live in a private house, then most often you have a dog that plays the role of the watchman and a friend.
In this case, be sure to provide your beloved dog with housing - comfortable, practical and warm.
Today you will learn how to make a kennel in which the dog will feel comfortable and cozy in any weather.
Today we will look at all the nuances of building and equipment of a dog house with our own hands, from preparation for work to installation of the roof.
Determine the size of the dog house and its location
First select the place where the booth will be located. This is a kind of guard post, and the location must comply with certain rules:
- when installing the structure, take into account the wind direction, as the booth should not be purged,
- the place should be well lit, but the shaded area next to it where the dog will rest from the heat,
- avoid moisture that may accumulate under the kennel, set the kennel on a hill in a dry place,
- the kennel should be close enough to the front door of the house, optimally on the south side,
- From the side of the booth, the gate, entrance gate and most of the site should be clearly visible.
The last point is justified by the fact that the dog by its nature requires a maximum view of the space, which allows it to detect danger and provide protection.
We now turn to the next task. Whatever the shape of the dog house, the dimensions should be calculated optimally for the pet. Therefore, the basis for the calculations are taken indicators of the size of the dog with allowances.
Traditionally used for the construction of the booth dimensions:
- A doghouse for a small dog (for example, a dachshund) is 700 mm long, 550 mm wide, 600 mm high,
- The box for an average dog (husky, German shepherd) - 1200 mm length, 750 mm width, 800 mm height,
- The booth for a large dog (Alabai, Caucasian Shepherd Dog) is 1400 mm long, 1000 mm wide, 950 mm high.
Since the size of the dog, even within the same breed can vary, then the size of the kennel can be customized.
And in order to determine them optimally, use this technique in the calculations. To determine the width of the manhole, measure the width of the dog's chest, and add 5-8 cm to the value obtained. The height of the manhole should be 5 cm below the dog at the withers, and the height of the whole booth should be 5 cm higher. The depth of the booth should be the same as in height.
Drawing for the booth with their own hands
So, having decided on the size of the booth and the additional conditions for its installation, proceed to the exact image on paper.
To make a good, reliable booth with your own hands, you need to make the drawing correctly, taking into account not only the dimensions of the dog, but also its peculiarities of character and even the climate.
Take into account such additions that will make the kennel a good and convenient protective structure:
- There should be enough space inside the booth so that the dog can get up, turn around or lie down, stretching out. The same goes for the entrance hole. That is, in the calculations do not forget to add a few centimeters to the growth, especially if the dog is still a puppy and will continue to grow.
- Use for the construction of the booth only natural, environmental materials. The best solution is wood: cheap, affordable and not harmful to your pet's health.
- If you live in a cooler climate, make sure that your dog is not cold in winter. Be sure to warm the booth, and if possible apply additional measures. For example, a booth could be a two-room apartment. The booth's width will increase about 2 times, with the manhole in the first room, or vestibule, located from the courtyard, and the manhole in the second room will be made in the inner wall closer to the back surface of the booth.
- You can also build a booth inside the enclosure. This option is well suited for large dogs, not accustomed to sit on the chain. Thus, the pet will not lose the freedom of movement, and the booth will be provided with additional heat preservation. If you live in the southern, warm regions, it is better to still make the booth more of the size: the dog will need more coolness than heat.
- Decide which roof you want for the booth. On the sloping roof, the dog will be able to rest comfortably, and under the gable you can equip a small attic for toys.
Taking into account all the nuances, make an accurate drawing of your structure. It will also help you calculate the amount of materials needed.
Materials you need
Before you build a dog house, equip yourself with all the necessary tools and prepare the materials. So, in addition to the finished drawing you need:
- Building level,
- Drying oil,
- Wood preservative,
The optimal choice of material for the body of the booth is a tree, mostly coniferous.
Such wood breathes well, retains heat, is easy to process and is durable to use. Use the same lining. The floorboard, sheets of plywood, bars, and for decoration - decorative slats and corners.
If you need to build a warmed dog booth, take care of its impermeability and impermeability as well. For all this you will need:
- Mineral wool (it can be replaced with foam),
Be sure to clean the wall panel, which is used in the construction of the booth, otherwise the pet may get hurt or shuffle. Do not treat the structure from the inside with chemical or substances or substances with a strong odor, such as paint, antiseptic, drying oil: dogs have a very delicate scent, and this can damage the dog's health and health.
How to build a dog booth: start the process
Now that we have everything we need, we will describe step by step how to make a kennel.
This is a fairly simple job, but, like any construction business, it requires care.
- First we build the bottom and frame. From bars 40 to 40 we assemble the frame for the bottom and nail the floorboards as closely as possible to each other so as not to form cracks. If your pet is large and heavy, reinforce the floor additionally with the same bars to save the floor from sagging. On the finished bottom in the corners, fasten the bars 100 to 100 in a vertical position. This will be the basis for the walls. Our design looks like a table upside down. Now perpendicular to the bottom, set the bars 40 by 40 between the main bars. They will serve as roof support, wall reinforcement and manhole designation.
- Go to the walls. In order to sheathe the booth outside, use the paneling, which does not stratify with time, unlike plywood. Attach the trim better with galvanized nails with small hats.
- When the walls are ready, we begin to build the ceiling. If you are planning to install a booth in an open-air cage or under a canopy, there will be a rather thin ceiling that will serve as a roof at the same time. If the kennel will stand in the open, the ceiling and roof should be made separately and additionally insulated. For the ceiling, take a sheet of plywood of the appropriate size and bars 40 by 40. Fasten a layer of mineral wool or polystyrene on top, dress it with glassine, and cover it with a second sheet of plywood. If you do not plan to put an additional roof, you can simply close the ceiling with roofing felt and lay shingles.
- Now make the roof gables: take the bars 40 to 40 for the perimeter, attach the glassine from the inside and sheathe the outside with clapboard.
- The last step is to enter. It needs to be closed from the wind with a tarpaulin curtain, and so that it does not wrap or open, hang loads from the inside, for example, plastic bags with sand.
Well, the booth is ready. To give it a finished beautiful look, coat it outside with varnish or paint.
Insulated dog house: what to do to make the pet feel comfortable even in winter
We have already said that additional warming will not be needed in all cases. Your dog may be shaggy enough to do without a warm kennel, and the yard is closed enough for cold winds and damp. But still the question of insulation and waterproofing is a separate consideration.
- First of all, remember that you can not put the booth directly on the ground. Because of this, the floor will quickly begin to rot. Install logs on the ground - thick boards, logs or bricks, on which you will lift the finished booth. This will be the first step to waterproofing the structure.
- Turn the structure over so that it is installed upside down. How should it be treated outside with an antiseptic, cover with roofing material and add on top of the additional 100 to 50 bars, also pre-impregnated with antiseptic. Having turned the structure back to its original position, cover the bottom with glass mat, lay a layer of insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene), lay it again with glass mat and fix the finishing floor.
- The walls are insulated in exactly the same way and are lined with clapboard on the inside. In this way, you will ensure the construction of a thermos effect that allows you to keep the heat inside.
Remember that if you made a booth from a thick timber of 8-10 cm, the wall insulation is not necessary, but the roof and floor will need to be warmed.
All these methods will help you provide protection from moisture, drafts, dampness, which means that your pet will be comfortable and cozy in the booth.
How to care for a doghouse
As you know, it is not enough to build a good building, you need to take care of it in order to extend the maximum service life and save time for major repairs. This is especially true for a doghouse.
It should be cleaned at least once a month: sweep away the leftovers, bones, wool and debris that the pet dragged inside. It is also necessary to regularly disinfect the kennel: in winter it is enough once per season, from spring to autumn, especially in summer - at least every month. The same applies to the fight against parasites. The treatment of a booth with creolin, lysol or formalin will not be superfluous. While the walls treated with mortar dry, it is better for the dog to be far from the booth.
In order to simplify the subsequent care of the kennel, during the construction make it collapsible.
For example, with a folding roof or retractable walls. Thus, you can also simply brush the snow in winter from the surface of the booth, and it will be much easier to disinfect from the inside of the structure.
In addition, in the event of a breakdown or damage to any element of the structure, it is much easier to replace it if it is collapsible than to repair everything completely.
Video about building a dog house
Well, now on your site is equipped with a place for your shaggy pet, thunderstorms of the surroundings and the faithful watchman. The dog will surely be happy for such a cozy and comfortable housing, and will feel the love and respect of its owner! If you want to learn more about the construction of the booth, ask questions in the comments, we will be happy to help you with your work!
It is reasonable to choose a booth with a rectangle at the base and a flat lean-to roof. You should not build partitions inside, complicate the design. Dogs do not need rooms, they need comfort and enough space to lie down as they feel comfortable.
Traditionally, the roof is made folding or removable, so the owner gets the opportunity to perform aseptic processing and cleaning the booth, without rearranging and turning it over.
The size of the dog's dwelling should be strictly proportional to the parameters of the animal. The width, height and other characteristics of the booth are calculated by the following formulas:
- Height: must be 5 cm higher than the height of the animal. (Width = height),
- Depth: animal length + 5 cm,
- Exit height: 5 cm + height of the animal at the withers,
- Width of an exit: more than width of a breast by 5 cm.
On a millimeter or ordinary paper, they carry out a drawing of a dog box, in which they put all the necessary measurements. Now it's time to choose materials. The best solution would be to use wood of coniferous trees - this building material is cheap, practical, and even a beginner can easily work with it.
List of building materials. Tools
It is better to prepare raw materials in advance. From the tools we need screws or nails, a puncher, hinges, a stapler. Dry timber 10x5 and 10x10 cm, edged board 2.5 cm, eurolining, sheet chipboard, foam plastic, roofing material, asphalt, disinfecting impregnation: this is an approximate list of building materials.
For best results, you can make your list by specifying the exact number of each of the components. However, remember that any raw material is taken with a margin.
Before work it is important to take care of the animal. To clean the boards in order to avoid splinters on the paws, and to carry out the impregnation only after the construction is completed, as unpleasant smells frighten off the animals, and the dog may not recognize its home.
The four-legged friend will appreciate the vast area on top of his house, where he can bask in the sun. For this, it is convenient to build shed roofs, which, moreover, should be easily removed when it is necessary to clean up the booth. It is necessary to take care of the dog's heat already at this stage of design. The entrance to the house is placed in a corner on the side, which is obviously wider, since with this arrangement the wind does not blow inwards. The dog should be able to sleep in a place protected from the cold.
Stage 1. Bottom frame assembly
From the bars of 4x4 cm fold a rectangular frame, the sides of which will be the length and width of the booth. Do it on a flat surface. Strengthen screws. The frames of houses for dogs of large breeds suggest the presence of 1-2 additional partitions. The stage is finished by covering the frame with boards.
Stage 2. Floor insulation
The resulting structure is laid in bars upwards. Glassite is attached with a stapler inside, foam is placed on it between the bars. The last layer is another sheet of glassine, laid on top of the insulation. The thickness of the insulating material is determined by the height of the bar. After these steps, the floor is slapped with boards, on which the dog will walk.
Stage 3. Construction of the kennel frame
We will need 4 bearing bars. To do this, use the bar 10x10cm. Of these, 2 are equal to the height of the kennel, and the remaining 2 are 8–11 cm longer than the first. These will be corner bars, so they are set in the appropriate positions on the floor frame. On the one hand, they place long, and on the other, shorter bars so that in future a roof slope is formed. With this design, additional bars will be needed in the center of each wall and from the sides of the exit.
Stage 4. Inner and outer wall cladding
Apply lining to a covering of an external surface of the box. Warming from the inside is produced on the same principle as in step 2. Only a plywood sheet or similar building material is attached to the top layer of glassine. Great care in lining should be paid so that there are no protruding nail caps to avoid wounds and injuries to the pet.
Stage 6. Exterior and interior
Outside, the surface is treated by impregnation. Why it does not need to be done from the inside, as mentioned above. At the bottom strengthen the ruberoid, bend its edges a bit on the wall. Then fix 2 bars, covering them with a primer mixture. The final step is to execute the exit design.
Final stage 7. Choosing a place for the booth
When installing the booth, choose the territory from which the site is clearly visible. Your guard should watch out for everything that happens. The place should be flat, bright, better under a natural or artificial canopy. Choose a plot near your own home.
Many owners of decorative dogs wonder: how to make a box for a small dog. It is impractical to make a house for dogs of large breeds in such a design, since cleaning becomes almost impossible, therefore this option is suitable for small breeds.
Stage 1. Assembling the bottom frame and frame
They take 4 bars for the frame, in the corners they drive 4 more bars along the height of our booth. Finish the frame by connecting the vertical bars on top with four more bars. Reinforce the supporting structure auxiliary commissures.
Stage 2. Roof construction
The gable roof assumes the presence of such a supporting system as rafters. To better understand the complex design, be sure to look at the photo of the dog booth at this stage of construction. Combining two bars 5x5 cm at an angle of 40 °, we get the first truss foot. One leg is attached from one end of the booth, the other, built according to the same principle, from the other. Connect the two gables with a ridge girder (the bar should protrude 200 mm on one side).
Этап 3. Обшивка
Аналогично будке с двускатной крышей наружную обшивку проводят вагонкой, днище – рубероидом. Используют брусья в качестве подставок, если это необходимо.
Этап 5. Обшивка кровли
Для выполнения этих работ крышу нужно снять. Изнутри традиционно обивают фанерой, поворачивают противоположной стороной, поверх фанеры крепят пергамин. Perform thermal insulation of the roof in a familiar pattern. Make out the ridge of the roof, drill holes in the gables for nails. Now the roof is convenient and quickly put back and removed for cleaning.
Warm comfortable booth with vestibule
The design of such a house is represented by two components: the dwelling of the dog itself and the vestibule - the part intended for isolation from the wind. The kennel looks very decorative, and the dog has the ability to shelter from the rain, not only in his sleeping place, but also outside.
The main difference between the construction of a booth with a vestibule from that of the usual in the presence of a special partition between the vestibule and the kennel itself. Bars 4x4 cm folded into a frame, the size of which corresponds to the internal height and width. A piece of plywood is placed on the frame, insulated, covered with a second plywood sheet. It is also possible to make a construction from two slats, which makes it easy to remove the partition.
What to look for when choosing a place.
The place of the kennel has a careful approach to the choice:
- watch the wind, do not put a kennel so that the wind blows constantly into it
- choose a lighter place for him, but not so bright either, so that in the summer heat the dog could take refuge there
- put a dog house on an elevated place, otherwise in the spring the dog will spend the night on wet ground
- leave the booth not far from the entrance to the house
- calculate so that the dog from his kennel saw the front door to the courtyard, so he can better guard the neighborhood
Required materials for construction
Coniferous wood is used for construction, since air circulates better through it, which means that the dog's temperature will be necessary in the kennel. Only before starting work it is necessary to sand it, otherwise the pet may get hurt or make a splinter.
During construction, you will most likely need tools such as: sand, nails, wall paneling, plywood, tile, polyethylene and bars, boards, slats, foam plastic or cotton.
From the inside of the kennel you shouldn’t handle anything, as the dog has an excellent and sensitive scent, and various smells can be irritants for him.
Dimensions of the kennel
Sizes must be selected based on the height of the dog. In her house, standing, without raising her head, she should fit well, and if in a lying position, the dog should fit well in a kennel with a fully raised head.
The width should be such that the dog, lying sideways, legs fully fit in the kennel in the extended position.
The height of the hole in the kennel must be less than five centimeters in height.
The assembly process itself
If you already have everything at hand, then building a house for your pet will not be difficult.
Assembling the bottom and frame, use the bars and planks. Boards need to be assembled close to each other, so as not to blow and not let the wind through. As a rule, bars are fastened at the corners, because the whole structure will be fastened on them.
As for the walls, then it is sheathed with clapboard, as it will serve more than its own similar building materials. They need to be fastened with carnations, on the tip of which there are caps, as it is safe for the dog.
Plywood is used as a ceiling, later, which must be insulated with cotton or foam. After the work done, put another layer of plywood on top. If after plywood nothing lays down, then all tiled.
The passage, as a rule, it is round, is covered with a curtain. This is so that the wind gets into the kennel minimally.
How to care for a dog kennel
In the kennel it is necessary to carry out regular cleaning about once a month. To disinfect a kennel in the summer is tedious almost every month, and in the winter and in the cold time this can be desired once in two three months, and this will be more than enough.
If you treat with any solution, then do not let the dog come in until the smell completely leaves the doghouse.